San Sebastián

[Jay]

Well folks we're off on our travels again, it's Linda's birthday this coming Friday and so she's booked us a last minute 3 day break to San Sebastián and we leave this Saturday

It will quite the beer and foodie break in what is the gastronomic capital of the Basque region...a full report will follow

Cheers
Jay 🇪🇸

[Trappist]

Well folks we're off on our travels again, it's Linda's birthday this coming Friday and so she's booked us a last minute 3 day break to San Sebastián and we leave this Saturday

It will quite the beer and foodie break in what is the gastronomic capital of the Basque region...a full report will follow

Cheers
Jay 🇪🇸

Nice ..... VERY nice Jay !!!!
There is that fair possibility that we will also pay San Sebastián a visit coming summer.
Normally, we always go to Thailand, but the airplane rates are so expensive these days. It's about €1.000 per person 
If that stays like that, we are planning a trip from Bruges to Porto, and will pass alot of coastal cities during our car trip.
San Sebastian sure is a two days stay during that track 
Cheers and have some cracking trip Jay & Linda         
Filip

[Jay]

Hi everyone

We're back from what I can only describe as an absolutely AMAZING break in beautiful San Sebastián, an enjoyable report will follow

Cheers
Jay 

[Trappist]

Hi Jay,
It's always good to read you're OK, and you and Linda had a fantastic Holiday trip.
Next week, starting from Friday, Katrien and I will visit Italy, more precise Verona and lake Garda.
One week of relaxation and birra italiana. Maybe we will meet up with Daniele 
Looking forward to the San Sebastián report......
Cheers,
Filip

[Jay]

Here we go folks...

We left Manchester and boarded our 5pm flight to Bilbao and just under two hours later we landed, suitcases already on the carousel as we cleared customs, this was one of our quickest landings yet.

With Bilbao being so far from San Sebastián a taxi transfer was out of the question (about 160€) so the obvious choice is a coach and luckily as you exit the airport the coaches pull up right in front, so it was just a 30 minute wait until we boarded our coach for the 1 hour journey to San Sebastián





After being dropped off in the centre of town we grabbed a taxi for the short journey around the coast to our hotel, a quick check in and bag drop and we stepped out for our first look at San Sebastián.
Now despite it being around 10.30pm we walked the short distance to a bar just down the road from our hotel named Bar Pepe and entered to a very full bar and managed to bag the only empty table for a couple of well deserved drinks from tap (not sure what but they were nice and malty) when ordering we were told that the kitchen would be closing in 20 minutes time so if we wanted food order now - so a plate of ham croquettes, crispy chicken strips and some of the biggest and best chicken wings we've ever had before making our way back to our hotel















Sunday -

Woke to a rather cloudy and grey Spain but at least it was dry so we decided upon a walk along the promenade towards the old town on the other side of the bay...it was time to explore.

Wondering through the maze of ancient back alleys we stumbled across the infamous Bar Néstor and despite it not being open forever another couple of hours we couldn't miss the opportunity so we'd return at 12 midday to hopefully place our order but in the meantime Linda had something else rather special in mind to pass the time...Basque Cheesecake, so it was to La Vina we trundled, home of the very best cheesecake.









A modern looking bar it was clear that this place was all about one and one thing only, the walls were lined with cheesecakes, the counter full of them and in the kitchen cheesecakes being prepared...so a portion of Basque Cheesecake it had to be (which btw is 2 slices) and 2 cappuccino for the very reasonable price of 10€

The cheesecake looks almost burnt from the outside but is pure white and very creamy inside and quite unlike any cheesecake you get at home, it was so creamy and vanilla packed a true thing of beauty









A walk around town picking up a few store cupboard ingredients before heading back in the direction of Nestor but seeing as it was only 11.30am we had a coffee at the bar opposite and sat outside waiting for signs of life...we didn't have to wait long as a couple stood outside the closed bar (clear what they had come for) so we quickly finished our drinks and joined the growing line in positions 7+8 with more joining behind us (still with 20 minutes to go)





At 12 the shutter on the window was raised and orders placed, everyone ordering the allocated 1 slice of tortilla per person (that is what Néstor is world famous for) when we placed ours almost half the tortilla had been ordered - Bar Nestor make just 1 tortilla a day making just 16 portions, we were told to return at 12.45 so we wandered around until our time but as luck would have it there was a large precession full of people dancing wearing traditional dress and playing musical instruments making its way through town so this was the perfect distraction before excitedly making our way back and lucky us we were first in line.





At 12.45 the shutters went up and we entered the small one room wood panelled bar, asked if we had come for tortilla we were told to take a place at the bar.
An expertly poured Basque Sidra (cider) and local Txakoli wine were ordered before the single tortilla was marched in and briskly cut into irregular portions, the lucky recipients name called from the list, ours would be the 4th name called.











The world famous Nestor tortilla is simply served with on a small plate with a piece of Frech stick (as almost all Pintxos were) it was as lightly cooked as I thought it would be but any worries about it being "too raw" quickly vanished on my first taste, the exterior crisp with a creamy potato, green pepper and gooey egg interior...simply perfect, overcooked hard UK tortilla a shambles by comparison.





Everyone in the bar was in total silence as they indulged and yet all the time people entering trying to order tortilla only to be turned away (clearly they had heard of this place but knew nothing about the pre-ordering)
Tortillas consumed I ordered 2 more Sidra and paid our bill -10.30€, amazing value for 4 drinks and 2 portions of tortilla.

Next it was beer time so a quick walk around the corner to Bar Etxebirra, my this place was absolutely rammed and I mean completely but our luck held out as we bagged an empty table at the rear of the bar.
Now with every available inch of floor space taken up with customers and you having to order at the bar I thought a couple of cans would be the best bet and most likely to make it back to our table intact.
The friendly owner serving suggested a couple of IPAs from Basqueland, these were happily consumed all the time in awe of the owner doing all the work single handed and also enjoying the hustle and bustle of this packed locals bar.









Time for more from Basqueland so set off for their brewery owned bar and no doubt some great beers, 15 minutes later we were there.





This is a minimalist bar with polished concrete and a Japanese food theme, our first order two recent releases in the form of Oh my Gatos IPA and Bone Broth DIPA, these were just what I'd been hoping for...incredibly juicy, hoppy and fruity - what an incredible start.





Food was ordered in the form of Boa buns I then opted for a Pohjala colab named Chocomel Caralate - 11% Imperial Stout with cocoa, chocolate, caramel, vanilla and salt...delicious stuff.




After buying cans and bottles to bring home another bar was in order.








Mala Gissona was what we opted for, this was a large open plan one room bar, our first orders a dark fruit sour a DIPA, both excellent before ordering a Verdant DIPA and a portion of crispy wedges served with a garlicky Aioli and spicy Bravas sauces.













More cans were bought and a Mala Gissona T-shirt before making our way back to our hotel to drop off our shopping then it was to Bar Pepe to finish our last day off perfectly with beer and Pintxos...day two to follow.


Cheers
Jay 

[John B]

What a lovely report Jay! You and Linda sure pick some amazing places to go. Thanks for sharing this here, and I look forward to whatever you have up your sleeve next mate.   

Cheers! - John

[Trappist]

Oh yes Jay, what a lovely part I report!
I'm quite intriguid with that best of San Sebastián tortilla at bar Néstor.
And ! you (or Linda) were so clever to pre-oder, otherwise a no-go would have shown up.
Jay, if you wanna know how they make it (which I truely doubt that you don't know), I found the Néstor chef cook making that tortilla.

Thanks for sharing your enjoyable moments at San Sebastián.

Cheers,
Filip

[Jay]

Hi Filip,

That's a video of Nestor that I've never seen before, thanks for sharing 

There was a tv series that aired here in the UK called Remarkable Places to Eat, each episode featured a different chef taking host Fred Sirieix to a different country to share these hidden gems and one episode was on San Sebastián, they of course visited Bar Néstor (visit is at 22 minutes)

https://youtu.be/_hBceows6MM

Cheers
Jay

[Jay]

So folks here we go...

Monday -

Woke to clear blue skies so today was the perfect day to see the sights. A short walk to the beach and we decided to take a ride on the funicular car to the Monte Igueldo amusement park that overlooks Ondarreta Beach - but first a look at El Peine del Viento, three very rusted works of art that look like large metal knots bashed and weathered by the crashing Mediterranean Sea.











Funicular time and it was a quick walk behind the large indoor seafront tennis courts to the foot of the hill and with all the Swiss looking chalet style houses we could have been in the Alps not Spain.







Buying our tickets from the ancient looking brick building we took our seats on the equally ancient looking wooden tram that sits on a 45 degree angle, it was quite the impressive spectacle









In minutes we were trundling up the hill, through woodland and past impressive large detached houses before arriving at the top and into a medieval themed fairground, sadly being out of season it was only open at the weekend but that did nothing to detract from the breathtaking views of the beach and city below and in the distance snow capped mountains, so after taking many pictures we took the wonderful ancient rickety ride back down to sea level









Seeing as the weather was so pleasant we decided to walk around the bay to the old town area and it was here that we stumbled across a true locals bar, a place filled with elderly gentleman. This was by no means beery but one of those special moments you come across by pure chance, to sit amongst locals drinking (as we did) Sidra and enjoy a couple of Pintxos is a memory that will long stay with me.







Linda decided to walk further towards the outskirts of town to do one last spot of beer shopping at Lauter Craft Beer, a small yet modern 2 room bar and bottle shop with 16 taps and a lovely selection of beers to take away.
Seeing as it was just 30 minutes until they closed for lunch we chose just one beer each, we both selected a very local brewery named after the area of town we were in...Gross.
Linda chose a Sticky IPA and me a Niri Bost NEIPA both amazingly fresh, the friendly and knowledgeable owner talking us through the beers as I shopped and I chose so real stunners.













It was time to take the long yet enjoyable walk home but on our way called into a Pintxos bar for delicious empanadas and Sidra, on our way home we walked by the harbour and sat watching the fish swimming in the crystal clear Mediterranean









Sadly it was now time to pack in readiness for tomorrows early departure, so after careful packing of cans, bottles, jars, chillies and much salami it was back to Bar Pepe to finish just as we had started our San Sebastián adventures.
To give you some idea of costs we had 2 large beers each, a Sidra, a Vermouth and 5 dishes (2 Pintxos) and the cost...just under 40€















So there is San Sebastián and question is how does it rank (Spain wise) well before our visit our No1 spot was Barcelona but San Sebastián has more than matched it...maybe it's our new No1 spot.

We are DEFINITELY returning only this time for longer and on a family trip because the kids would absolutely love, it ticked every box - fantastic bars, delicious food and beer, warm friendly locals, fantastic sights to see, beautiful beach...really what more could you want.

A very happy
Jay

[Jay]

Almost forgot a beer (and food) haul picture.
This place really lived up to it foodie status, not once did me and Linda have what you'd call a traditional meal. Instead we grazed on delicious bar snacks and Pintxos so it only natural that food would take up part of our bounty...I even managed to pick up a jar of the elusive and expensive Piment d'Espelette, made from local sun dried and ground chillies









Cheers
Jay 

[John B]

It just keeps getting better and better. Another amazing report Jay! 

Cheers! - John

[Trappist]

Oh yes Jay,
Your reports indeed keeping better and better !! What an enjoyable read 

To my upper surprise, I made a dish tonight, incl ...... yes, Piment d'Espelette. What a coincidence 









Braised Oxtail, spiced with Piment d'Espelette.
Really not that spicy, but it gives a pleasant back-throat tickling and a warming feeling afterwards.
That's really a very delicate spicy pepper, but indeed not that cheap as I bought it at €11.49 for 50 grams.

Jay, it would be an honor for me if I could publish your enjoyable San Sebastián report here on the main page. 

Thanks for sharing Jay     

Cheers,
Filip

[Jay]

Wow Filip...what are the chances of that, me mentioning that special Espelette pepper and you not only knowing of it but also cooking with it 

I paid €9 for that similar sized jar (but then it comes from that region) the deli that I bought it from also gave me a taste of a preserve using Espelette pepper along with tomatoes and peppers (wish I'd have bought a jar now) but next time eh 

It would be a honour to grace the main page mate.

Cheers
Jay 👍🏻

[Trappist]

Wow Filip...what are the chances of that, me mentioning that special Espelette pepper and you not only knowing of it but also cooking with it 

Now you see Jay that miracles really DO happen
It is a great coincidence, but it is MUCH possible we do visit San Sebastián (damn á  ) in July too 
I'll share your posting ASAP !!! Thanks   
Cheers,
Filip